Apparatus and method for reducing torque in garments

a technology of fabric and garments, applied in the field of apparatus and methods to reduce torque in fabric and garments, can solve the problems of relatively expensive plied yarns, relatively inaccurate de-twisting at wet processing, and attempts to address fabric torque, etc., and achieve the effect of no torqu

Inactive Publication Date: 2014-01-23
GUNN JAMES LARRY
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

The present invention provides methods for manufacturing textile garments with minimal torque and shrinkage. By orienting fabric to negligible torque, garments made from greige fabric yield no torque, and can be made last minute dyeing decisions. This efficient process reduces the amount of fabric dyed, cost of inventory, and produces garments with high quality standards. Additionally, non-destructive testing eliminates the need for wash testing for torque and shrinkage conformance. The invention can also be used with open width or tubular goods, and solves torque / skew on feed stripe knits.

Problems solved by technology

Prior art attempts to address fabric torque, also referred to as fabric skew, include relatively inaccurate de-twisting at wet processing, and relatively expensive plied yarns.
The prior art has not provided an efficient means to produce a skew specification, orient the fabric to a negligible torque state, or non-destructive testing for torque.
Such processes are not controllable to the level that yields fabric with negligible torque thus fabric, cut parts and garments are produced that skew after wash and tumble drying.
Prior art destructive testing for fabric skew can involve a very ambiguous process, because pass or fail depends on the chance that a single (statistically insignificant) sample randomly taken accurately represents the entire production order because of single sample destructive testing.
Also, prior art tests typically allow for a significant amount of bow and skew that would be objectionable on higher cost garments.
Thus today a significant volume of garments are objectionable after washing and tumble drying, because of fabric skew / torque.
Current linear finishing technology does not allow the fabric to achieve the negligible torque state during processing.

Method used

the structure of the environmentally friendly knitted fabric provided by the present invention; figure 2 Flow chart of the yarn wrapping machine for environmentally friendly knitted fabrics and storage devices; image 3 Is the parameter map of the yarn covering machine
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  • Apparatus and method for reducing torque in garments
  • Apparatus and method for reducing torque in garments
  • Apparatus and method for reducing torque in garments

Examples

Experimental program
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Effect test

example 1

[0056]The appropriate take-up to cylinder ratio can be calculated by performing the following steps. The number of needles on the cylinder (2088) is divided by the needles skew per inch (eight) to yield a quotient (261). The number of yarn feeds going into the cylinder (120) is divided by the number of courses per inch (52) to yield a second quotient (2.307). The first quotient (261) is divided by the second quotient (2.307) to yield a third quotient (113). The third quotient (113) represents the number of cylinder revolutions. For Z-twist yarn on a knitting machine turning right to left when facing the machine (clockwise when looking down on the machine), one revolution is added to the number of cylinder revolutions (113) to yield a sum (114), which represents the number of revolutions for the take-up, thereby yielding a desired cylinder to take-up rotation ratio of 113 cylinder revolutions for every 114 take-up revolutions. Accordingly, the motor drives 68, 78 and electronic encod...

example 2

[0057]A Z twist 22 / 1 weight ring spun yarn knit on a four feed per diameter inch single jersey knitting machine results in fabric skew of 5.8 needles per inch. To relieve the torque in this fabric, the fabric tube is allowed to de-twist approximately twelve revolutions for each 100 yards. The ratio of cylinder to take-up turns would be 132.25:133.25 to achieve negligible torque. As such, the take-up 70 would make an extra revolution every 132.25 turns of the cylinder (or the take-up would turn 133.25 revolutions to each 132.25 revolutions of the cylinder).

example 3

[0058]A Z twist 18 / 1 weight open end spun yarn knit on a four feeds per diameter inch single jersey knitting machine results in fabric skew of 2.8 needles per inch. The ratio of cylinder to take-up turns would be 164.77:165.77 to achieve negligible torque. The take-up would turn an extra revolution about every 164.77 turns of the cylinder.

[0059]Each fabric processed can have a specification for skew or negligible torque (angle of needles wales versus a vertical line). Fabric can be checked at any process or in garments for correct skew by using the stitch glass aligned to the vertical (folded edge on tubular). By counting the number of needle wales that angle out of the stitch glass on the fabric edge per inch you can establish a value for wale skew. Since this is a non-destructive test it can be performed randomly throughout the batch for ensuring process control. Once the specifications (skew to balance torque) are known tables can be worked out to approximate the value for new fa...

the structure of the environmentally friendly knitted fabric provided by the present invention; figure 2 Flow chart of the yarn wrapping machine for environmentally friendly knitted fabrics and storage devices; image 3 Is the parameter map of the yarn covering machine
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PUM

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Abstract

A method of reducing torque in garments includes calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric. A knitting machine can orient fabric along its negligible torque line. The knitting machine includes a cylinder having a plurality of needles for knitting the fabric, a take-down component for pulling the fabric from the cylinder, and the knitting machine is adapted for rotating the take-down component at a predetermined rotation ratio relative to rotation of the cylinder. The predetermined rotation ratio can be calculated using the needle wale skew measurement. Torque can be accurately measured at all textile / apparel processes.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS[0001]This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61 / 741,440, filed Jul. 20, 2012, and U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61 / 853,061, filed Mar. 28, 2013, which are both incorporated herein by reference. In addition, U.S. patent application Ser. No. 12 / 930,777, filed Jan. 18, 2011, now abandoned, is incorporated herein by reference.TECHNICAL FIELD AND BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION[0002]The present invention relates to an apparatus and method to reduce torque in fabric and garments. One embodiment of the invention comprises a textile apparel process to eliminate torque in garments made from single end spun commodity yarn.[0003]Prior art attempts to address fabric torque, also referred to as fabric skew, include relatively inaccurate de-twisting at wet processing, and relatively expensive plied yarns. The prior art has not provided an efficient means to produce a skew specification, orient the fabric to a neglig...

Claims

the structure of the environmentally friendly knitted fabric provided by the present invention; figure 2 Flow chart of the yarn wrapping machine for environmentally friendly knitted fabrics and storage devices; image 3 Is the parameter map of the yarn covering machine
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Application Information

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IPC IPC(8): D04B15/66D04B15/88D04B15/38
CPCD04B15/66D04B15/38D04B15/88D04B15/665
Inventor GUNN, JAMES LARRY
Owner GUNN JAMES LARRY
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