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Bioactive composition for cosmetic applications

a technology of bioactive compositions and cosmetic raw materials, applied in the direction of biocide, plant ingredients, plant growth regulators, etc., can solve the problems of inconvenient process preparation of cosmetic raw materials, insignificant, unacceptable coloring of creams or lotions, etc., and achieve the effect of reducing the number of metal complexes

Inactive Publication Date: 2009-04-23
EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH
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  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Description
  • Claims
  • Application Information

AI Technical Summary

Benefits of technology

[0028]Particularly suitable solvents in process step A) are compressed gases, such as, for example, propane or carbon dioxide, which can be used in the subcritical, near-critical or supercritical phase range. Preferably, in process step A), a supercritical liquid extraction is carried out using compressed gas, particularly preferably compressed CO2. This permits a particularly gentle removal of the extractants. To adjust the properties of these compressed gases, cosolvents such as, for example, ethanol, can optionally be added. Preference is given to using solvents which have no or only slight toxic or other physiologically disadvantageous effects.

Problems solved by technology

However, the intense yellow / orange color stands in the way of one such use; even in concentrations of 0.1% by mass, it causes a significant, unacceptable coloring of creams or lotions.
The described process is not suitable for the preparation of cosmetic raw materials since treatment with ionizing radiation is generally not accepted by the market.

Method used

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  • Bioactive composition for cosmetic applications
  • Bioactive composition for cosmetic applications
  • Bioactive composition for cosmetic applications

Examples

Experimental program
Comparison scheme
Effect test

example 1

[0138]The preparation of a distilled Curcuma longa extract by thin-film distillation is described below.

[0139]1 kg of dried, comminuted rhizome of Curcuma longa was extracted continuously with CO2 for 4 h at 300 bar and 40° C. to exhaustion. The crude extract was obtained through expansion of the CO2 / extract mixture to ambient pressure into a cold-trap. The extraction was repeated several times, with yields of about 45-50 g of extract being obtained per kg of dry rhizome. The extract was an intensely orange-colored oil with a Gardner color number of 11.3 which had a characteristic odor.

[0140]200 g of the extract were distilled over a thin-film evaporator with external heating surface at a temperature of 100° C. and a pressure of 10−2 mbar. 162 g of a yellowish, clear liquid (Gardner color number 3.5) were obtained as distillate, and 33 g of a dark, cloudy oil were obtained as residue. The distilled extract was used for the formulation and effectiveness experiments described below (E...

example 2

[0141]The following example illustrates the connection between distillation yield and color of the distilled extract. The procedure was analogous to that in Example 1, except the temperature of the vaporization surface was varied in the range from 90 to 110° C. The results are shown in the table below:

Vaporization temperature / ° C.:90100110Distillation yield / %:697437Color number (Gardner):3.23.43.7

example 3

[0142]The influence of the addition of Curcuma longa crude extract and of the distilled extract according to the invention to cosmetic formulations on the color is shown below.

[0143]Various cosmetic formulations with the crude extract and with the distillate were prepared. Furthermore, the blank formulation without extract was prepared. The color of these formulations was determined. For this, the CIE-Lab color space was used as a basis. By stating the L*a*b* values it is possible to determine a color precisely. The axes in the Lab space correspond directly to perceptible properties of the colors. The red(+a) / green(−a) values are spread along the “a” axis, and the yellow(+b) / blue(−b) values are on the “b” axis (cf. DIN 6174).

F1. O / W Lotion with 0.5% Curcuma Longa Extract

F1-AF1-BF1-CDecyl oleate5.7%5.7%5.7%Ethylhexyl stearate6.5%6.5%6.5%Glyceryl stearate0.5%0.5%0.5%Stearic acid0.7%0.7%0.7%Cetearyl glucoside1.0%1.0%1.0%Creatine0.5%0.5%0.5%Glycerol3.0%3.0%3.0%Kathon CG0.015% 0.015% 0.0...

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Abstract

The invention relates to a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Curcuma plants, characterized by the process steps process step A) liquid extraction of Curcuma rhizomes, process step B) optionally, separation of a curcuminoid-containing solid obtained by precipitation from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A), process step C) removal of solvents present from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A) or B) to obtain a concentrate and process step D) distillation of the concentrate at a pressure of less than 1 bar to give the extract as distillate.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION[0001]The invention relates to a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Curcuma plants. More particularly, the present invention provides a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Cucuma which includes the following processing steps: A) liquid extraction of Curcuma rhizomes, B) optionally, separation of a curcuminoid-containing solid obtained by precipitation from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A), C) removal of solvents present from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A) or B) to obtain a concentrate, and D) distillation of the concentrate at a pressure of less than 1 bar to give the extract as distillate.BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION[0002]Curcuma longa (curcuma, turmeric) is a plant of the ginger plant family (Zigimberaceae), the roots and rhizome of which are used as dye and spice on account of the intense yellow color and the characteristic taste. A variety of biological effects are described for the dried...

Claims

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Application Information

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Patent Type & Authority Applications(United States)
IPC IPC(8): A61K36/906A61P17/00
CPCA61K8/97A61K36/9066A61Q19/08A61Q19/004A61Q19/007A61K2800/522A61K8/9794A61P17/00
Inventor WENK, HANS HENNINGFARWICK, MIKEBERGFRIED, STEFANMACZKIEWITZ, URSULA
Owner EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH
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